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FRENCH MULE OF PMOPOliTIONS : 



BEING ADAPTED TO ALL THE 



VARIETY OF FORMS AND FASHIONS, 



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WITHOUT THE TROUBLE OF APPLTtlNG ANY MEASURING APPARATUS, OR 



TAKING BUT ONE SIMPLE EXTRA MEASURE. 



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' T'l^T R O D U^ T I O N 



The author of this \wrk hjrving" for some time noticed the larg^e amount of pa. 
tent measuring systems for Cutting, offered to the trade in this country, and most 
of them, in his opinion, tending more to confuse the cutter than assist him, has 
been induced to re.publish a French System of Cutting, which he believes to be 
superior to any now in use, being adapted to all the different modes of cutting; it 
is entitled to the notice of those persons who wish to adopt some precise rules 
in regard to Cutting. 

Much has been said of the inefficiency of the breast measure rules, having been 
denounced as leaving too much to the jiulgment of the cutter; but I would ask 
those persons who have given these patent measuring systems a trial, if more 
judgment is not required in measuring for the one than drafting with the other. 
The difficulty in ascertaining the exact measure when the customer is giving his 
directions, must be obvious to all. Suppose a man stands unnatural when he is 
measured, as is apt to be the case; when you apply any measuring apparatus on 
him, you take the measure while in this position, and you cut the coat the reverse 
of what it should be. Again, the manner of drafting with these measures changes 
the whole form of the coat ; the measures may agree, and yet the form of the fore 
parts differ very widely. The range of the shoulder in its relative position to the 
side seams may be thrown one inch or more too far forward or backward, as no 
precise measure can be taken for the range of the shoulder; it may have been at- 
tempted, but with little or no success. 

I do not wish to be understood as detracting from any of these systems. Many 
of them possess some merit, but are too intricate for general use. 



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OF THE MEASURE. 

This rule is based on a division of the shoulder in connection 
with the breast measure. The measure is taken i'roni the center of 
the back opposite the back scye, and is continued over the shoulder 
in front of the arm, and back to the same point. Place this meas- 
ure on your book with the breast and waist measure, and your scye 
is drafted by certain proportions of this measure. 

Measure the length of waist and the leni>th of the coat. 

Measure the width of back, to the elbow, and to tlie lenuth of 
sleeve required. 

The breast measure take easy. 

The waist measure as tight as your customer will bear. 



4 

EXPLANATION OF PLATE I. 

THE BACK OF DRESS COAT. 

Comaience to lay off your back by going in from the edge of cloth one eighth 
at 3; from 1 to 2 one third of breast measure, deducting one tweatyfourth at top • 
from 2 to 4 one third of shoulder measure. Make the back any width you choose 
at the top, across the shoulder, and at the waist. 

One advantage in this rule is in drafting the back in with the fore part. 

THE FORE PART OF THE COAT. 

Lay the back on the top of cloth as represented on plate 1st. To save cloth, 
let the line 4 run oft' the edge of cloth at two thirds from the top down, (see plate 
1st); from 2 on the back to 5, go in twenty-fourth of shoulder measure; from 5 
to 6, go in one third of shoulder measure ; square this line down through the 
cloth; from 6 to 7, go down two thirds of breast measure; from 7 to 8, go up one 
third of breast measure; from 8 to 9, go twenty.fourth of breast measure; from 
8 to 10, go twehth of breast measure. This at present is the most fashionable 
height of breast and form of neck. 

Square line A, out by the line 7, 8; draw line 7, 11, through the cloth; lay the 
back line 4 on line 7, 11, fore part, as represented on the plate; go up on line 7, 8, 
one eighth, and carry the back in at the waist, until line 4 on the back ranges 
with the 8th on line 7, 8, of the fore part, from 7 to 4, on the back one third of 
shoulder measure. 

Thus you will see that from 7 to 2 on the back is two thirds of shoulder meas. 
ure, and from 7 to 6 upwards is two thirds of breast measure. You will at once 
perceive by this manner of drafting, that it obviates all ditticulty in regard to the 
width of back the fjishion may require. 

From line 7 to the bottom of scye, at 13, one eighth of breast measure. 

Form your shoulder seam and scye to your taste, touching at 13 and 7. The 
top of shoulder seam may be sprung out a little, and the bottom point of shoulder 
seam taken otf a little. 

Fi'om 7 to 12, one half of breast measure; sweep by 2 on the back, by the 
breast measure at 12, for front of breast. 

Form the neclc by dropping the gorge a little below line A, and touching at the 
sweep, for front of breast. 

To form the waist, carry the back in to line 7, 8, (or more or less as your proof 
measure or juilgtneut nny dictate,) and mark your side seam; if large shoulder 
blades, allow for them; if very )!! st, carry the side seam almost straight. 

Go up to 14, one sixth of waist measure; sweep from the bottom of side seam 
by the top of shoulder scam, to the size of the waist; go up one twelfth for step. 

Scfu.are line 14 to 17: from 7 to 11, one third of waist measure; square line 15 
to the bottom, from 15 to IG, one third of breast measure, sweep for the hollow of 
waist from this third. 



PLATE 1 




PLATE "2 




PLATE :i 




PLATE i 




EXPLANATION OF PLATE II. 



DRESS COAT SKIUT. 



From 1 to 2, hall" of u aist mcasuio ; from 2 to 3, one eigbth of 
waist measure. Draw a line from 1 to 3, for spring of skirt. (See 
draft.) 

FROCFv AND OVERCOAT SKIRT. 

From 1 to 4, half the size of the Avnist ; from 4 to 5, one fourth 
of breast measure; from 4 to (>, half of waist measure, for spring 
of skirt. Sweej) (rom 5 to 7 by 20 inthes ,• for large sizes, o\ er 38 
waist, sweep by 24 inches. 

SLEEVC. 

From 1 to 2, twenty-fourth and sixth of shoulder measure. 

From 2 to 5, half of shoulder measure, deducting a twenty-fourth. 

Mark your sleeve head according as you have made your scye ; ilt 
a very broad shoulder, make less round on your sleeve head. 

For under sleeve, from 1 to 8, go in twelfth of breast measure. 

For width of sleeve, from 3 to C, one third of breast measure. 

DIP From edge of cloth to 4, go in one fourth of the length of 

sleeve. ^j~n 

From 4 to 7, go in one fourth of breast measure. 

For tight sleeve, one fourth from the tacking above the buttons. 



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G 

EXPLANATION OF PLATE III. 

PELTO AND TAGLIONI. 

Commence to lay off your back the same as a dress coat, from 2 
to 3, one sixth of breast measure; draw this line across, and go in 
one third and fourth on line 3. (The remainder of the upper part 
of this coat is the same as a dress coat.) 

You cannot get the back out of the way, if from 7 to 2 is two 
thirds of shoulder measure, and one eiohth from line 7 to bottom of 
scye, or the sixth line drawn across from 3. If you have any diffi- 
culty in ascertaining this point, go up from 7, on line 7, 8, one eighth, 
and make your back line 4 range to this point ; then lay your square 
on at 7, and see if from 7 to 2 on the back is but two thirds; then 
you have the proper place to sweep for front of breast. 

The same rule will apply on dress coat. 

At the bottom of fore part make a mark one eighth on the back, 
and carry it in at the waist until the eighth meets line 7. 

Sweep for the bottom by shoulder seam, starting at 14. (See draft.) 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE IV. 



VEST RULE. 



Deduct one sixth from the top of the cloth, for the back of vest 
at top, and go down another sixth and one third; square this hne a- 
cross, and go in one eighth to 4. 

From 4 to 5, go up one third ; square tliis line across from 4 to 
7, half of hreast measure, from 1 to 6, fourth of shoulder measure. 

Sweep for front of breast by the size of the breast measure. 
At the bottom, half of waist measure to the button stay. 

For a crooked form add from twenty-fourth to one eighth, as your 
judgment may dictate. 

The largest size on the draft is for corpulent men. 

A very crooked form requires a Vest of the same shape. 



8 

GAITER PANTS. 

Take the measure from the top of the Pants to the kuee, and to the bottom of 
the Pants at the heel of the boot; then carry the measure as far forward as tbe 
customer wishes his Pauts to come on the foot. 

Take the inside measure the same as the outside, carrying the measure forward, 
which makes a dilference of one or one and a half inches. 

Measure the size of the waist, the size of the hips, the knee, around the foot at 
the instep. 

Take a measure round the heel, the distance the customer wants the Gaiter to 
come on the foot. 

No. 1 GAITER PANTS. 

From 1 to 3, by the measure. From 3 to 4, the length of Pants. 

From 4 to 5, one eighth of hip measure. 

From 5 to 6, one lourth of hip measure. 

From G up to 7, the inside measure. From 2 to 10, half of hip measure. 

Square up by line 2, from 10 to 8. From 8 to 1, half of waist measure. 

From 10 to 9 on the back parts, one fourth of hip measure 

Draw the back line up as in the plate. 

For Loose Pants, as No. 3 ; for Tight Pants, as Nos. 1 and 2. 

The size of the bottom, to No. 1, is 14 inches. For this kind, spring them out 
about 2 inches. For No. 3, spring them out 41 inches, or the width of the strap. 
For No. 2, make the straps Al to 5 inches apart. Make these Pants any size you 
wish. 



PLATE C). 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



017 411 728 7 



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